Introduction of the Book Mouneh
I promised myself that when the book Mouneh was complete, I would return to the land I cherish, where cherry trees once stood, to reflect on the years of research it took to complete this project.
Now, as I sit under a shady tree dominating the entrance of my grandfather’s land in the fertile Bekaa Valley, I am finally at peace. Though frequent challenges threatened to overwhelm me, I accomplished what I set out to do. Without a doubt, the adventures I shared along the way with people from the furthest reaches of my country fed my enthusiasm. Their knowledge and experience, generously shared, elevated my task beyond imagining. Again and again, I saw that whatever differences may exist between us, they ultimately render us invaluable to each other. The beauty of being Lebanese is to cherish and celebrate this variety of our unique culture.
National identity is based on many things, not the least of which is how a society feeds itself. Home-processing seasonal foods for later use, or preparing the mouneh, are an indelible part of our shared history as Lebanese. I am happy to report that mouneh production continues to flourish in many parts of Lebanon. In preserving this culinary heritage, we provide healthy and sustainable nourishment for our families.
The word mouneh comes from the Arabic word mana, meaning “storing”. The idea evokes a feeling of home, security, nourishment, tradition, maternal instinct and so much more. In the past, especially in remote villages in Lebanon, the mouneh was prepared during summer’s bountiful harvest for consumption during winter’s harsh days. Mouneh products provided fundamental nourishment for the daily meal, having transformed perishable produce into food with a long shelf life. Today, without the urgent necessity of preserving food for the winter, the mouneh has become more of a sociological act. For some, it is a way to keep our basic culinary heritage alive. For others, it is a conscious effort to avoid waste. Still others continue to prepare mouneh for security purposes, as a safeguard against hunger in times of political instability. Though the intent may vary, the basic idea remains food preservation.
Preparing mouneh is time-consuming work which, in the past, often involved a whole community. Today, it is rare to find a household that prepares every single type of mouneh item. More often, family or regional “specialties” will arise – villagers in Kfardebian, for example, are likely to make all sorts of apples-related products. Families along the coast may prefer to process their bountiful orange crops for jam. And those who do not own land must wait for the peak of production (and the lowest prices) to purchase supplies from across the country for their yearly mouneh.
Though the basic characteristics of mouneh products are universal, there remains incredible variety and adaptability from region to region. This book is a collection of recipes which are mostly timeless classics, presented seasonally and by month, representing the best of my experiences in kitchens and workshops from north to south. By arranging them in such a way, I seek to emphasize the use of nature’s gifts at the peak of their ripeness (making strawberry jam in October is counterintuitive, for example). We Lebanese are extremely fortunate in the abundance and flavor of our local produce. Not only is homemade food healthier, it nurtures a fundamental family value – one of feeding our families responsibly.
You will find tremendous satisfaction in making your own canned products, especially if you have the opportunity to work alongside a friend or loved one. I encourage you to claim this piece of our shared cultural heritage; it should not be forsaken. Discover it for yourself – your family will thank you for it. Cherish and share the mouneh of our ancestors because, truly, its future lies in each one of us. My hope is that, within these pages, I have done my duty to safeguard the basic principles of mouneh for my children and yours.
Barbara Abdeni Massaad
Barbara Abdeni Massaad was born in Beirut, Lebanon. Her practical culinary experience began during childhood, working alongside her father at Kebabs & Things, their family-owned Lebanese restaurant in Florida. After returning to Lebanon in 1988, she earned a BA in advertising and marketing. She then utilized her talents in the business world before deciding to pursue her passion for cooking and photography.
Determined to learn from the best, Barbara trained in the kitchens of several renowned chefs to learn secrets of French, Italian and Lebanese cuisine. She also became a founding member of Slow Food Beirut and actively participates in the International Slow Food movement.
Man’oushe: Inside the Street Corner Lebanese Bakery, winner of the Gourmand Cookbook Award, was her first book – the research for which took her the length and breadth of the country. Mouneh: Preserving Foods for the Lebanese Pantry continues Barbara’s quest to discover and preserve another aspect of Lebanese culinary heritage. She has also contributed articles to local and international publications.
Barbara lives in Beirut with her husband and three children, all of whom remain very involved in her culinary journey.
The very best memories connecting us to time and place are often stimulated by the tastes and smells of our childhood. Freshly-baked bread, hot from the oven, sweet homemade jam dribbling down our chins or the burst of flavor in each dried grape – these memories bring a smile to our faces even as they call to mind the people who made them possible.
Do you remember working alongside your grandmother as she lovingly preserved garden-fresh foods to set back for the winter? You watched Grandfather (Jiddo) patiently prepare his arak, but could you reproduce his efforts from memory? Are you lucky enough that they kept written records of recipes gleaned from family history and years of experience? If so, count yourself among a very fortunate minority.
The reality for many of us is that we no longer enjoy such a strong connection to our culinary roots. As much as we might wish the contrary, the beauty and simplicity of home-preserved pantry items, the mouneh, taken for granted during our childhood, often seems a lifetime away.
In Barbara Abdeni Massaad’s book, Mouneh: Preserving Foods for the Lebanese Pantry, we’ve been thrown a lifeline to a piece of our cultural and culinary identity. So many things we would love to recreate for our own families become possible within these pages, thanks to the author’s diligent research, stunning photography, simply presented instructions and delightful stories.
